Mushrooms might look as if they’re simple in design and structure, but they are far from it. These complex fungi contain dozens of biologically active compounds such as vitamins, minerals, polysaccharides, peptides and nutrients that have immune-boosting, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. They are used for everything from cancer treatments to treatments for high blood pressure and diabetes. 

In fact, for thousands of years in Ancient Egypt and China, mushrooms have been an important part of maintaining health, vitality and beauty. Ancient Egyptians used specific mushroom preparations for skincare masks and created cleansers and lotions from them. And for centuries, Chinese herbalists have prescribed mushroom extracts to treat various skin issues and ailments.

In recent years, as the demand for more holistic ingredients in skincare increases, the practice of using mushrooms in skincare products has steadily grown. While more than 148,000 species have been discovered, it is estimated that more than five million species actually exist. Among the discovered species, potent phytochemicals have been identified that have found their way into numerous skincare and personal care products and are proving to be as effective—in some cases, more effective—than conventional skincare ingredients.

The most notable recent uptick occurred in 2005 when Dr. Andrew Weil, a popular alternative-medicine physician and author, collaborated with the cosmetic company “Origins” to create the facial product Mega-Mushroom Relief & Resilience Lotion. The lotion contained reishi and chaga mushrooms and was very effective at targeting and calming skin redness and sensitivity. Since then, a host of other companies have joined the party. Thus, the study of topical mushroom extracts and their cosmetic benefits has, well, mushroomed, resulting in the availability of a wide variety of products to treat just about any skin condition.

Most notable among ingredients that support basic skin health and vitality are the polysaccharides, specifically beta-glucans, which are humectants that draw water to the skin. They also strengthen the skin’s barrier to help it retain moisture and defend against environmental stressors such as pollution and the sun’s radiation. Snow mushrooms are one of several mushroom varieties that contain high levels of beta-glucans. They’ve become very popular lately due to studies showing they can outperform hyaluronic acid, a skincare gold standard for hydrating skin. And it doesn’t hurt that the snow mushrooms look like cute little angel wings!

Skin ages as a result of external factors like exposure to radiation from the sun and pollution, as well as internal conditions like dehydration and the presence of molecules that break down collagen and elastin—two substances that keep skin plump and firm. Collagen gives skin its full, plump appearance, and elastin gives the skin its firmness and tightness. As we age, collagen and elastin production naturally decreases, resulting in sagging skin that’s dry and slow to heal and regenerate. B vitamins and vitamin D stimulators can improve elasticity and increase collagen by blocking the damaging components in the skin that destroy collagen and elastin. If used for the prevention of aging skin, antioxidants such as ergothioneine, polyphenols and selenium protect the skin from free radicals that can damage DNA and speed up the aging process. Look for products that contain lion’s mane and/or reishi mushrooms to help with collagen production and most other signs of skin aging.

Aging skin also experiences increases in hyperpigmentation—darker spots from sun damage. Sun damage that occurs over time is stored deep in the skin’s layers, and as the skin ages, the dark and damaged skin rises up to the surface, causing the hyperpigmentation to appear. This is initiated by a skin enzyme called tyrosinase. Shiitake mushrooms in particular contain high levels of kojic acid, which can block the production of tyrosinase, making the dark spots much less likely to appear.

Rosacea is a condition characterized by a ruddy or reddish complexion and is sometimes accompanied by inflammation, burning and a specific type of acne. Mushroom complexes can target inflammation and skin sensitivities to reduce redness and calm skin. Anti-inflammatory components such as triterpenes and phenolic acid help to soothe irritation and act to calm the skin. Reishi mushrooms are high in these redness-reducing plant chemicals and bring a feeling of relief.

Cosmeceuticals are products classified as having ingredients that have an effect on the skin at a cellular level, unlike cosmetics, which just act to improve the skin’s surface appearance. They can act at deep levels to block the free radicals responsible for collagen breakdown and excess melanin production, resulting in plumper, more youthful and more even-toned skin. Mushrooms can be classified as cosmeceuticals because they’ve been clinically proven to alter the skin at the cellular level. Through extensive research, it is seen that mushrooms penetrate the surface of the skin and reach the deep layers, where they retain their potency to heal and repair. These funny-shaped and multicolored fungi, which have been on the earth for more than 1.5 billion years, never cease to amaze!

Of course, mushrooms can also be taken internally as they are strong adaptogens, which act on the body’s nervous system to balance out irregularities, often calming the nervous system as a result. Stress is a huge factor in skin health. When the nervous system experiences stress, it dehydrates the skin and can reduce blood flow and oxygenation of the skin.

Over a period of time, this can speed up skin aging and quicken the formation of fine lines and wrinkles. Be sure to ask your doctor about taking mushrooms internally, as some can affect certain prescription medications.

Certain things must be kept in mind when searching for a skincare product containing fungi. Some people are allergic or sensitive to certain strains of mushrooms, particularly shiitake; it’s important to patch test to make sure the skin won’t react poorly. Mushrooms are also bioaccumulators—like sponges, they absorb substances from their growing environment. It’s smart to seek out organic products when possible or at least find a reputable company to purchase from.